The gentle momentum of the train set me in a contemplative state as I stared at the fields of Chartreuse dotted the water buffalo and ponds. I headed to Quy Nhon, a beach city in central Vietnam. We set out from Hoi An village of historic fishermen, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The train was meant to simply be a mode of transportation. But with my feet cooed into a blanket, my feet hugged in soft slippers, my stomach was full of my decadent multi-course meals, and my hands of green tea, which was fed from my 500-year-old garden, I realized that this was more than a way of travel. This was a travel experience in itself. I have lost time to admire the shift scene, from intense rice pads to delicate backyards that revealed another aspect of Vietnam. I thought I had made the right choice.
That choice was a way to travel around Vietnam. A year ago, I spent all my time in Hoi An. On this trip I wanted to venture even further. Given the long, slender shape of Vietnam, my instinct was to fly, but when I learned in 2020 that the hotel’s Anantara Hoi An launched a gorgeous carriage, I plated the idea of a train journey. General Manager Michael Wiltz said: I was sold.
More than the lavish charm of trains, I was drawn to the idea of experiencing the North-South Railway, which was built under French colonial rule in the 1880s and served as an essential supply route during the Vietnam War. After unification, it was renamed the Unified Express and became a symbol of post-war national unification, linked to Hanoi in the north and Ho Chi Minh City in the south.
Even today, you can make a full 40-hour trip via the regular commuter train, but the only luxurious train option in the country, Baitage passes through one section of Central Vietnam from Da Nang to Quy Nhon (inclusive of $450), then runs towards Nha Trang (an extra $450) (an extra $450). The high-end part is 11 hours long. Anantara helped me book a 45-minute transfer from Hoi An to the train station in Da Nang.
Once inside the carriage, it felt like I was walking through the portal until the early 20th century. Nodding to the Indoshin architecture that flourished under French colonial rule, 12 private booths, separated by rattan partitions, are surrounded by luxurious dining cars fastened to white marble bars with leather stools. Mint green uniforms from attendants, shaped like traditional Vietnamese national costumes, ao daiThe embroidered lining, which is said to have been inspired by railway tracks, emphasizes the atmosphere of a bygone era.
In my booth, I thrust my toes into the offered slippers and immediately looked like my smiling attendant was ready for my free massage. After 15 minutes of kneading my shoulders into the soft rhythm of the train, I stepped into the hallway and remained in the window to admire the forested mountains in the distance.
A three-course lunch met me at my seat. A seafood salad with mussels, calamari and tiger shrimp sourced from the Cham Islands. Traditional rice with chicken, pickled local vegetables, chili paste and fish sauce. and a local strawberry dessert on top of creamy coconut yogurt. eggplantThe eggplant stew served in a clay pot was the best presentation of the dishes I’ve tasted throughout my trip.
Vietnam’s obsession with coffee is overshadowing the country’s rich tea culture, the bartender told me, so I was excited to drink Coconut coffee (Coffee made with condensed milk and coconut cream), I also tried out the tea sampling: 100 year old malty tea grown in the highlands of Lamdon Province. PU-M I held my hands in cast iron pots and other local varieties that made me think they might come from the fields outside the window.
As we approached the end of our six-hour ride, I found two towers of an 11th century van temple from the Kingdom of Champa. We also passed Mui Dien, one of Vietnam’s oldest lighthouses. If I had followed Nha Trang, I would have seen Bình Thenh, the longest wooden bridge in the country. I wanted to explore more, but the guests at Baytage cannot fly around at stops along the way. Still, I was happy to arrive at Quy Nhon. There, we spent the rest of the afternoon beach time at Anantara Quy Nhon Villas. Having my villa and private pool overlooking the secluded sand of the resort made me happy that I didn’t return to Da Nang anytime soon. I wanted to experience the evening train service (all inclusive discounted, discounted for $340).
The Baytage wants to expand its north service, but the train has not yet reached Hanoi, so from my beach rest I took it by plane to the country’s capital. The flight was short and convenient, but also inconspicuous. By the time I checked in to the famous 124-year-old Sofitel legend Metropole Hanoi in the bustling old quarter, I had forgotten about it. But the train trip stayed with me. Next time I’m in Vietnam, I’ll take the remaining Vietnam route from Quy Nhon to Nha Trang. Enjoy a different menu (including an elaborate afternoon tea service with pastries and caviar), take in the impressive blue bay of Tokai and enjoy yet another unique view of this diverse country.
