While Sabato De Sarno’s first two collections as Gucci’s newly appointed innovative director evoked a smoldering Italian vibe, his first Cruise show for the brand appeals to his softer, more ethereal side. Set in London’s Tate Contemporary art gallery, the Valentino graduate created a winding runway reminiscent of a British garden, decorated with lush green plumage that looked as if it had sprouted after ponderous rain (a common occurrence in the city). De Sarno’s May 13 presentation, perhaps an homage to London’s royal and mystical history, was full of primitive details and fairy-tale gowns that recalled a fairy tale – not the streets of Milan.
Gucci’s heritage happens to have ties to the British capital, hence the choice of location. In fact, the iconic horse bit chain bag and the brand itself were inspired by founder Guccio Gucci’s love of the riding style, which he encountered while working as a luggage porter at the Savoy Hotel in London. And yes, this slice of British equestrian culture was certainly present in De Sarno’s latest collection, from the previously mentioned horse bits with belt buckles, jackets and the brand’s signature loafers, to rugged, buttery leather outerwear styled with no pants (in true De Sarno style).
London’s status as a fairytale landmark also gained prominence thanks to the flowing, sheer bow blouses that were a constant presence on the Cruise 2025 runway. Paired with oversized patchwork denim, fringed midi skirts and low-slung trousers, the blouse is no longer so subtly positioned as the next substantial office wear trend when it comes to Gucci. The same romantic fabric was used in the princess-like flowing, flowing gowns presented in candy-colored shades of cushioned yellow, blue and green.
The magical character of the collection is enhanced by shimmering details that recall previous innovative director Alessandro Michele’s penchant for maximalism. Sparkly fringed skirt sets and oversized jackets added sparkle to an otherwise stunning presentation, catching the airy as they glided through the garden maze.
Here are some gems from the latest De Sarno collection inspired by London, in all its mystical glory.
