Understatement of the century: There is no shortage of skin care (and makeup… and hair care…) products on the market that contain hyaluronic acid (HA). Praised by countless brands and experts for its moisturizing and plumping properties, it is one of the most popular ingredients used in product development today. In addition to a wide range of dedicated hyaluronic acid serums, this ingredient can be found in basically every type of skin care product – such as moisturizers, masks, cleansers, toners and even sunscreen – marketed to support quench your skin’s thirst and packaged in some type of aqua blue lettering or pattern.
It’s ironic then, especially considering its reputation as a moisturizing and skin-smoothing superstar, that some people find this ingredient to be drying to the skin, which doesn’t usually have the benefit of reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Enter your opinion Reddit Or ICT Tok and you’ll discover plenty of anecdotes (and even posts from skin experts) to support this claim – you may even have experienced this side effect yourself. It turns out that depending on how and in what form you utilize hyaluronic acid, it can cause dryness. Read on to learn more about the ingredients and user errors that may be causing unwanted results from board-certified dermatologists.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Despite its name, HA is not an exfoliant. “A lot of people see the word ‘acid’ and are concerned, but it is true [hyaluronic acid] and not like alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids, which are chemical exfoliants,” she says Dr. Ryan Turner, MDcertified dermatologist and co-founder TRNR skin. “Rather, it is a sugar molecule naturally produced throughout the human body, found in the tissues of the skin and eyes, as well as in synovial fluid.”
On skin care product packaging, hyaluronic acid may also be listed as sodium hyaluronate, potassium hyaluronate, hyaluronate, or even simply HA. According to Turner, sodium hyaluronate, a salt of hyaluronic acid, is most commonly found in skin and skin care products.
Hyaluronic acid belongs to the category of humectants, or moisturizing ingredients, which means it attracts and helps retain moisture. Hydration can support your skin in several different ways. “When skin is dehydrated, it looks tedious, abrasive, and fine lines and wrinkles are much more apparent,” says Turner. “By drawing moisture into the skin, hyaluronic acid can support plump the tissue, making it look more radiant, velvety, and making the texture look much more even.”
While hyaluronic acid is generally considered suitable for all skin types, it’s not the only moisturizer worth your attention. Hyaluronic acid must also be used correctly to reap its benefits and prevent unwanted effects. He is not a miracle worker either. In fact, Dr AS Shereene Idriss, MDcertified dermatologist and founder of the company Dr. Idriss skin care, believes there are “much better moisturizing ingredients” that consumers can utilize to moisturize their skin. (If you follow Idriss on her social media platforms, you may be familiar with expert opinions on this ingredient and how the beauty industry promotes it. (TL;DW: She’s not a fan.)
Can hyaluronic acid cause dryness or irritation?
If you think that hyaluronic acid is the cause of your increasing dryness, it may be time to take a closer look at the products you utilize in your daily care.
Hyaluronic acid itself is not a drying ingredient, but using too much of this ingredient can potentially make your skin feel desiccated. According to Dr. Kiran Mian, MDcertified dermatologist in Hudson Dermatology and Laser Surgery“too much HA will cause moisture to be drawn from the deeper layers of the dermis into the epidermis, leaving the deeper layers of the skin dehydrated.” Given the skincare industry’s obsession with hyaluronic acid, you may be using it more than you realize. Mian recommends reducing the amount you utilize before completely eliminating the ingredient.
Turner agrees that hyaluronic acid has the potential to desiccated out the skin even more, but also notes that in his experience, it’s rarely talked about. “In some circumstances, hyaluronic acid can desiccated out the skin even more,” she says. “If the top layer of skin is desiccated, hyaluronic acid can actually draw the water it is looking for from the deeper layers of the skin.” How you physically apply hyaluronic acid can prevent this (more on this below).
The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid in skin care products – combined with the amount used – can also influence the dryness or irritation that occurs after using the ingredient. “Low-molecular-weight HA, which brands typically tout as being better for the skin, can be pro-inflammatory, so if you utilize it in too many parts of your routine, it can actually cause skin inflammation, redness, and irritation—only making already dehydrated skin worse.” says Idriss.
Another factor that may influence the undesirable effects of hyaluronic acid utilize? Humidity in your environment. Turner says desiccated environments can cause hyaluronic acid to draw water from the skin.
If you experience irritation after using hyaluronic acid, it is best to discontinue utilize and seek advice from a board-certified dermatologist.
What is the best way to utilize hyaluronic acid?
To get the best results from a hyaluronic acid serum, Turner recommends applying it to damp skin right after cleansing because “this will give the hyaluronic acid some water to absorb” and prevent the ingredient from pulling water out of the skin. Then apply an occlusive moisturizer to lock in the moisture and prevent it from escaping.
“A moisturizer can prevent water absorbed by the humectant from escaping into the skin,” Turner explains. “You need hydration from humectants and hydration from emollients like squalane, ceramides, and jojoba oil to keep your skin barrier functioning at its best.”
Remember, as Mian mentioned above, it is recommended to avoid excessive utilize of hyaluronic acid to prevent dryness as a side effect. Generally, it does not have to be in every product.
Moreover, Idriss believes that single-ingredient hyaluronic acid serums are unnecessary. “It’s the dose that makes the poison, and too much of a good thing is just too good,” he says. “Given that most products on the market contain HA, there is no reason to wonder how to incorporate it into your routine because it is probably already there.”
What are moisturizing alternatives to hyaluronic acid?
No matter your reason for avoiding hyaluronic acid, there are plenty of other moisturizing ingredients you can incorporate into your routine. Idriss believes that glycerin is a better skin moisturizer. “It creates a protective barrier on the surface of the skin, preventing moisture loss and keeping it moisturized for a longer period of time.”
In addition to glycerin, aloe and honey are two humectants that are also worth trying, says Turner. “All of these ingredients are natural and offer a variety of additional benefits in addition to hydration, including antibacterial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.”
Mian is also a fan of heparan sulfate, an ingredient she says has anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.
