On the evening of May 2, a powerful, unexpected wind blew high on the rooftop terrace of the Cité Radieuse in Marseille, bringing with it some fresh energy for the 2024/2025 Chanel Cruise collection. While last year brought the youthful essence of bubblegum pop – complete with leg warmers and pink sweat dresses – this season is all about seaside adventure. Perhaps it was the influence of the upcoming Olympic Games in Paris in 2024 that took over original director Virginie Viard (the sailing competitions of the games will be held in the Marseille marina). Whatever the source, it appears that the aerial display was an all-encompassing ode to the city’s status as the “pulsating heart of the Mediterranean” as well as a water sports center that attracts multitudes of travelers from around the world.
The most literal ode to Marseille’s water culture was its sea-inspired palettes of colors, patterns and textures. Crochet skirts in shades of gray, turquoise and yellow resemble the shades you can see at the bottom of the ocean. Flowing silk dresses – in floor-length and thigh-high mini versions – featured a whimsical fish print. Necklaces and belts of gold chains resembling fishing nets hung around the neck and hips, decorated with symbols of marine life, including crabs, anchors and pearls.
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A stylish take on the city’s watersports culture came with terry cloth platform slides and rubber ballet flats, which Viard described as “scuba tuxedo” shoes in interview With Fashion. The latter were a constant presence in the collection – signaling their imminent virality – paired with everything from bow-embellished wetsuits to trendy shift dresses. Speaking of dresses, sleeveless cotton hooded minis look fun and casual, especially when accessorized with patchwork front pockets and neck rosettes. Even Chanel’s classic tweed suit received a sporty makeover, with models donning zip-up hoodies under their signature ensembles or donning warm pants under oversized knit sweaters, as if they were heading out for a garden brunch after a quick morning dip in the sea.
The luxury of the Mediterranean lifestyle was captured in a wave of flowing white eyelet dresses, shadowy denim ensembles and straw porkpie hats. Otherwise straightforward silhouettes took on an instant sparkle with layered pearl necklaces and three-dimensional flowers along necklines and sleeves.
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If you dream of idle days on the French Riviera, the latest Viard collection may be the last impulse to pull the trigger and book your summer trip as soon as possible. Ahead are our highlights from the sea-inspired presentation below.
